Construction Method Of Our Shoes
Here at the BSC we stock shoes from some of the best and oldest Shoemakers in the UK. Today we will look briefly at the different types of construction they use, their benefits and some of their limitations.
We'll start by looking at what we feel is the best type of construction;
The most prevalent construction method within our range of shoes, this is due to the overwhelming positives of this technique. Welted shoe's to put it simply have an indirect attachment of the sole to the upper, via the Welt which gives this type of construction its name. Welted shoes are easily re-soleable, they mould to your feet, generally more water resistant than more direct sole attachments and as they can be repaired so many times, welted shoes can last for many years.
This technique is the same as Goodyear Welted but with a more pronounced welt with an added lip, this helps with water resistance, is generally found on more heavy duty or country styles.
Blaked or Stitched Through
Blaked stitched shoe's are usually on lighter weight shoes as the sole is stitched directly on to the upper through the insole. This stitching can sometimes be felt on the inside. Although Blaked shoes can be repaired (usually only once or twice), unless repaired on the original last the fit can alter. This technique tends to leave the sole more flexible, with a finer look than Welted shoes, but are not as water resistant or long lasting.
Stitch down construction is most commonly found on casual shoes such as desert boots. This technique involves the upper being turned outwards and the upper is stitched down onto the sole. This lends itself to a very casual look, very flexible but not particularly water resistant.
Rather than stretching the upper down over the last, the leather is wrapped underneath and pulled upwards, before a plug is stitched in place, the upper is then attached to the sole normally via a Blake stitch or cement. This construction is incredibly flexible and lightweight great for casual styles, most commonly found on boat shoes and loafers.
Cement Construction is used for lightweight and flexible shoes and the outsole is stuck to the upper by adhesive. This gives a very fine appearance usually reserved for patent dress shoes. Cemented soles are not generally replaced.